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Looking East: Hong Kong Designers in New York

by Heather Harlan

Chinese-cut inspired creation by Blanc de Chine of Hong Kong

For decades, Hong Kong has been known as a major manufacturing center for the biggest names in American and European fashion. Many don’t realize, however, that the city has also produced, in recent years, its own crop of native-born vibrant designers. Organizers of a special Hong Kong designer showcase featured during last week’s 7th on Sixth fashion shows in New York City hoped to change that. The presentation unveiled the latest work of three top Hong Kong designers—Barney Cheng, Flora Cheong-Leen, Joanna Chu-Liao—and the fashion label Blanc de Chine. The show marked the first time that any of the designers had exhibited at the prestigious event.

The Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC), the government agency that sponsored the show, said the event is part of its on-going effort to promote the region’s home-grown design talents in the international fashion arena.

“Prior to coming to New York, [the designers] also participated in Australia’s fashion week and shows in Singapore,” said Stephen Millikin, publicist for the HKTDC.

At their New York show, the looks shown by the Hong Kong designers ranged from flowing silk dresses inspired by Tang Dynasty robes to quirky leather biker jackets with appliqued handprints.

The designs seemed to be a hit with those in the audience. “I am surprised by the quality and wearability of the clothes,” said the president of 7th On Sixth Inc., Stan Herman.

Leading the parade down the runway was Barney Cheng’s sexy but soft eveningwear collection. Some of the standouts included a gold lace micro-mini skirt that barely covered the essentials; a pink silk organza sack dress pinned at the hip with a huge fabric rosette; and a pastel floral organdy embroidered bandeau top paired with sequined chiffon pants. There was also a silk moiré shirt jacket draped over a mesh halter dripping with Swarovski crystals that was paired with a matching moiré flounced pants lined with gold lace.

“My design philosophy is all about couture,” Cheng said. “‘Couture-a-Porter’ is my version of ready-to-wear: couture cut, fabric and hand-tailoring.”

Cheng is a favorite designer of actresses Gong Li and Michelle Yeoh and Lady Lavender Patten, the wife of Hong Kong’s last governor. In 1996 Cheng was commissioned by jeweler De Beers to create a bridal collection, which included a wedding gown encrusted with more than 100 carats of diamonds. Cheng’s designs are sold in New York at Henri Bendel and Bloomingdales.

Flora Cheong-Leen used lots of heavy leather for her collection, but balanced it with lighter fabrics such as tulle and georgette: white leather hot pants worn with a blue gauze sleeveless blouses; suede halters paired with a tulle overshirt. Another hot number paired sequined pants with sheer embroidered mandarin shirt jackets. The designer also showed several looks for men including jeans with an embroidered dragon coiled around one leg, and fringed leather cowboy jackets and pants.

Cheong-Leen’s collection is sold at a her namesake retail chain, including 20 stores in Europe and China. Her designs were also featured in last year’s Mao: from Icon to Irony exhibit at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London.

Blanc de Chine offered the most obvious Chinese-inspired collection of the group. For women, there was a white viscose floral tunic with a mandarin collar and matching pants, a white hand-embroidered long dress and a black silk cheongsam-style tunic over pants. For men, there were mandarin-collared shirts and suits, a white Mao suit and a black silk scholar’s robe.

The Blanc de Chine label was founded by Hong Kong designer Kin Yeung in 1989. Its flagship store, located in Hong Kong’s Central district, offers a ready-to-wear line as well as custom-made service. Blanc de Chine also has a boutique in New York City at 675 Fifth Avenue. Next spring, a larger store is fated to open at a nearby location on Fifth Avenue and 48th Street.

Joanna Chu-Liao offered a pretty, delicate series of ensembles decorated with vintage embroidery and beading: a mesh top with a graphic beaded pattern shimmered above a cotton canvas pencil skirt finished with saddle stitches; a satin top with a beaded cape was paired with stretch satin pants.

Some dresses were cut on the bias including one printed with a floral pattern and scattered with sequins. Most of the pieces had some degree of intricate, hand-stitched details. But for Chu-Liao, all the careful attention to minute details really adds up to a clean look that’s not too over-the-top.

“There is nothing outrageous about my collections,” Chu-Liao said, “Just simple, chic clothes which I think are classic.”

Chu-Liao got her start in the fashion industry with her father’s company, Regatex, a Hong Kong manufacturer that produces garments under license for Escada, Burberry and other major brand names. Chu-Liao soon after established the company’s own line under three labels including, Flair by Joc, Sanyo Coats and a label that bears her name. Her key market is Japan, where she has a store in Tokyo.