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Deep Sunset Win’s a Major Loss

Simple Chinese fare gets no love

Located between 40th and 41st, deep in the Sunset, one wonders how anyone knows about this nondescript restaurant. I can guess that it is through word of mouth — someone told me to come here for good, simple Chinese food. I’ll tell you up front, it’s not worth the trek.

Despite the glowing write-up Win’s Restaurant received from the San Francisco Chronicle, the Picky Eater does not agree that this restaurant is noteworthy. Blown to enormous proportions, the Chronicle review boasts of the Peking Duck and “mouth-watering” entrees. To me, the duck is barely passable and the other dishes are hardly worth giving kudos.

The best thing about the restaurant is the aroma when you walk in. Scents of roasted, salty and sweet spices emanate throughout. The aroma invites you in, tugs at your salivary glands and whispers to your stomach about the delights to come. Ignore it. The smells are lying.

The decor at Win’s is nostalgic at best, tacky at worst. The silvery wallpaper, wood-trimmed walls, high ceilings, circular, antique-like sconces and yellow ceiling lights take you back to the groovy days of yore. The wooden tables and chairs, specials scribbled on the dry erase board, hanging ducks on the window and the clanging of dishes in the back all add to the no-frills environment. Yet, I have to admit the steam emanating from the front boiler, the brisk waitress and the sound of the zooming L-Taraval street car do add some character to this Chinese eatery.

Win’s Restaurant does not play music for your listening pleasure — a quality that some conversationalists would enjoy. But it’s also especially good for eavesdroppers, so watch what you say.

I ordered half of the Peking Duck for $9.95, which came with hoison sauce, five steamed flour buns and slivered green onions. The best part of the duck was the crispy skin. Unfortunately, the duck must have been anorexic because it was all skin and bones. The meat itself was fatty — a quality that an apprentice chef I know said was not typical in a “good Peking Duck.” I believe him, because I’ve definitely tasted better.

The sautéed scallops with vegetable for $8.45 was a small notch better. The scallops were tender and the baby bok choy was firm but it was a bit on the bland side. I could not figure out how the cooks flavored it. My guess is that they blanched the vegetables and scallops, tossed it in a wok with some oil and forgot to season it. Note to die-hard purists: I think I found your dish.

Finally, the Mongolian beef for $5.75 was the most disappointing of all. It was dressed with bell peppers, onion and soy. When the dish arrived, it was glazed in oil. Although the meat was tender, it was drowning in — literally — an inch of oil. Moving the meat around the plate, I noticed that it left trails of oil on my rice. I took one bite and set it aside.

All in all, this restaurant really needs to change. I’m not talking about redecorating, but putting more effort in the cooking itself. As an amateur cook, I could do better. The cooking needs more TLC and less comfort in knowing that one reviewer liked their Peking Duck. Maybe they should do what Jamba Juice does and give customers a survey of the food. Was it too oily? Was it too bland? Was the Peking Duck too skinny? Yes to all three.

Win’s Restaurant

3040 Taraval Street
(Between 40th and 41st Avenues)

San Francisco, CA 94116

415-759-1818

Hours: Tues. – Sun. 11 a.m. – 10 p.m., closed on Monday.

Price: $3.50 for appetizers
$15.50 for entrees