As much as I love Indian food, I’m a greenhorn when it comes to putting down spicy curries and vindaloos. Though not all Indian food is spicy and heavy, until my visit to Annapoorna in San Mateo I had never eaten at a restaurant specializing in South Indian cuisine, which was light on the palate and chilies.
South Indian cuisine draws heavily from the influence of the Malabar Coast, with its abundance of cardamom, pepper, cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg perfuming many of the region’s dishes. In addition to these spices found in vegetarian and meat dishes, coconut and ginger are also frequently used. And unlike the wheat-based diet of North India, rice is the staple food in South India; when steamed, ground or fermented, it metamorphoses into savory pancakes, steamed dumplings and crispy fritters.
Located along a commercial strip of El Camino, Annapoorna is named after the Indian goddess of plenty, generosity and grains. The goddess is regarded as the provider of food and sustainer of prosperity. The idol of Annapoorna is always accompanied by a small offering of food, which symbolizes that the worshipper is assured of food throughout his or her life.
Walking into the spacious and airy restaurant, my lunch mate and I immediately felt comfortable and welcomed by the space and our graceful server. White, vinyl, laminated, masonite tables fill a dining room of great height, equipped with ceiling fans and colorful prints of the goddess and the elephant-faced deity Ganesh (remover of obstacles).
Two televisions were tuned to a cricket match, and the voice of an excited British commentator distracted me from perusing the laminated, computer-printed menu. The restaurant bills itself as strictly vegetarian, specializing in South Indian cuisine “rich in lentils, rice and coconuts.”
My teeth sunk into Idly ($3.95), a soft and slightly acidic steamed ground-rice-and-lentil cake, which was served with sambhar, lentil soup and coconut chutney. The spongy disc’s texture reminded me of a cross between bread pudding and a steamed Chinese roll, man tao (similar to the dough of steamed pork buns). The rice flour retained a delicate sandlike texture, which yielded a dough that wasn’t chewy, and the fermented batter created a pleasant sourdoughlike taste.
The Masala Dosa ($5.95) came in the form of a gigantic half-moon crepe stuffed with a creamy, velvety mash of potatoes, peas, onions and carrots peppered with mustard seeds. The crepe was wonderfully crisp on the edges, which brushed the table since it was too big to fit on the plate, and pliable in the center, making it easy to wrap the scrumptious masala mixture.
Not knowing what else to try, we went with the Special Combination ($8.95). It came with Vada, a lentil- and rice-powder donut-shaped fritter deep-fried in vegetable oil; Utthappam, a thick, aromatic pancake made from lentil and rice; and more Idly. My friend gobbled down the golden-crispy Vada, which, although fried, didn’t leave any greasy fingers. The Utthappam was hearty and filling, and the tangy tomatoes and sweet onions made the pancake moist without turning it soggy.
Pucker up to a plate of glowing, yellow Lemon Rice ($5.95), dotted with black mustard seeds, cumin seeds, peanuts and cashews. It will jog your taste buds. The first few bites released the piquant essence of lemons. A few seconds later, the chilies heated up like a furnace in my mouth. I quickly cooled down with a spoonful of gourd poriyal and a relish of lentils, squash, coconut and mustard seeds.
The meal didn’t leave me feeling heavy or soporific, and I didn’t feel as if I had unloaded a barrel of potatoes and lentils into my stomach. I was most impressed by Annapoorna’s ability to create dishes that were both light and robust. Everything, from the warm dining room and the breeze from the overhead fans to the wholesome and delicious food, made Annapoorna truly an enlightening experience.
Masala Dosa
Dosa ingredients:
• 1 1/2 cups short-grain rice
• 1/2 cup urad dhal (black gram dhal)
• Salt to taste
• Oil or ghee (clarified butter)
Masala filling:
• 2 large potatoes
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 1/2 teaspoon yellow split peas
• 1/2 teaspoon mustard seeds
• 1/2 teaspoon turmeric
• 1 - 2 green chilies
• 1 tablespoon oil
• Salt to taste
For dosa: Soak rice and urad dhal separately for at least six hours in water. Drain and grind to paste. Mix together; add salt with water to make batter. Leave in room-temperature environment overnight. Mix onion and chilies into the thin batter. Heat pan or griddle with a little ghee, or oil. Ladle batter onto pan and draw big circles; cook on both sides until golden brown. For masala: Heat oil. Add mustard seed, peas, onions and spice. Fry about five minutes on medium heat or until onions turn golden brown. Add potatoes, mix and cook some more. Add filling inside dosa and roll. Serve hot with chutney.
Reach the Picky Eater at pickyeater@asianweek.com.