A Happy Surprise: Shanghai eatery offers ‘small eats’ for big appetites
September 17, 2004
Maneuvering through the afternoon traffic crawl in San Mateo last week, I happened upon a nondescript restaurant, which has made a name for itself as one of the best noodle and dumpling houses on the Peninsula. Flanked by Mexican taquerias and a Salvadoran eatery, Happy Café serves up a selected handful of Shanghai delicacies, including the ever-doted-upon xiao long bao, pork-stuffed “soup” dumplings, sesame and red bean sweet cakes, and Shanghai noodle dishes.
A stenciled sign lets customers find Happy Café, and Chinese characters in red paint read, “xiao chi dian,” or “small eats joint.” In China, xiao chi can mean fast food, snack foods or noodle joints. My friends in China informed me that the purpose isn’t to get full, but rather to whet your appetite for what’s to come.
Inside the petite restaurant, the mauve-colored dining room houses only eight tables. During lunchtime, customers can sign their names on a waiting list when the dining room is full. Be prepared to share elbow space and tables with people.
I liked the restaurant’s minimalism: no extraneous decals, ornaments or plastic greens to cramp the already small space. I was lucky on my visit and was able to get a table right when I walked in. I couldn’t help but look around to see what others were eating. The couple to my right was finishing up a plate of Chinese-sausage fried rice and a tray of xiao long bao, and a chatty pair of tai tai were licking their lips from a glistening pile of Shanghai stir-fried new year cake.
I started out with Boiled Chicken with House Dressing ($2.95) because I wanted a cold dish for my hot body (you know what I mean). Strips of chicken thigh were lightly dressed with soy sauce and sesame oil. But there was one other ingredient in there that I couldn’t quite put my finger on: It was either a splash of Chinkiang vinegar or rice wine. Allowing the chicken to sit in its own broth with the heat off, rather than letting it finish cooking on a full heat, is what creates the supple and tender texture of the meat.
Unfortunately, the restaurant was out of Boiled Shrimp Dumplings ($5.50), succulent shrimp encased in meaty, homemade flour wrappers. I decided to try a lunch special (which comes with a fried chicken drumstick). To my pleasant surprise, the Chicken with Tomato and Tofu ($5.50) was light, satisfying and delicious.
I had feared a saucy and oily stir-fry of battered chicken, soggy tomatoes and deep-fried tofu all swathed in a gluey and sweet cornstarch disaster. The farthest thing from that appeared before me. I’m still a bit surprised because this dish was probably the lightest Chinese dish I’ve ever ordered that wasn’t listed as “boiled” or “steamed” on the menu. Cubes of silken tofu and wedges of tomatoes were cooked with small chunks of chicken and served with a generous portion of steamed rice. This dish definitely reminded me of something my mom makes.
I couldn’t leave the restaurant without trying one of Shanghai’s famed xiao chi, the Stir-fried Shanghai Noodle ($5.25). Crisp napa cabbage and strips of lean pork were tossed with the distinctive Shanghai noodles, and the dish had a nice, rustic look and aroma, compliments of the sautéed black mushrooms. Shanghai noodles are one of my favorites: chewy and al dente, thick and hearty — eating them is half of the fun. They’re thicker and moister than Cantonese egg noodles or mein, and the noodles are delicious with just a splash of soy sauce and Chinkiang vinegar or when cooked with seafood and pickled cabbage.
The dish is oily but still comparatively light on the grease. Although the noodles are colored brown from the soy sauce, they aren’t drenched in flavor or salt. That brings out the freshness and texture of the noodles. (There’s a special technique that one has to master before making the noodles successfully.)
Happy Café also offers dessert items like sweet red bean cakes and sesame cakes. If you can brave the weekend swarm, the restaurant serves up traditional Chinese breakfast fare like warm, sweetened soy milk and Chinese crullers. Inexpensive and good food at Happy Café makes the trip to San Mateo worthwhile. And since it’s a “small eats” place, you can save some room for pupusas from next door.
Happy Café
250 South B St. (at 3rd Avenue)
San Mateo, CA 94401
650-340-7138
Hours: Mon., Tue. – Fri. 11 a.m. – 2:30 p.m.; Wed. 5 p.m. – 9 p.m.; Sat. – Sun. 10 a.m. – 2:30 p.m.Prices: Appetizers: $2.95 - $3.95; soups: $4.25 - $5.25; entrees: $5.25 - $6.50
Cash only.
Reach the Picky Eater at pickyeater@asianweek.com.
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