For the Sake of Sake

December 28, 2007

Sake, often called the “Drink of the Gods” by the Japanese, is a beverage made from water, rice, koji-kin (an enzyme), and yeast. Until recently in America, sake was a mysterious liquid produced by secretive Japanese sake breweries, with the finest available only to those in the know. Americans had only heard of sake at their favorite sushi bars, where the piping hot beverage was served from a cryptic ceramic flask.

Within the past few years, however, sake has broken off its marriage to Japanese cuisine and started to appear on wine lists of some of the country’s top restaurants. Sake has also leapt out of strictly Asian markets and is now sold in almost every supermarket with a fine wine section.

Sake Production
Sake makers use various methods, but Japanese law states that sake must be made from rice, rice koji and water.The drink, commonly referred to as “rice wine,” is actually not a wine at all. Its production is more similar to beer brewing than wine fermentation because it is made from grain, not grapes. Sake starts from rice kernels, usually polished or milled to a fine grain that lacks impurities like oils and proteins. One aspect that affects the flavor of sake is how much the grain of the rice is polished: more milling results in more fragrant and delicate sake, whereas less milling creates a fuller-bodied sake with more prominent hints of rice.

Once the rice is steamed, a mold called koji is added along with water, and the fermenting process begins. When everything is just right, the sake is pressed. After sitting for a few days to let more solids settle out, the sake is usually charcoal-filtered to adjust flavor and color. Most sake is then pasteurized once, heating it quickly by passing it through a pipe immersed in hot water. This process kills off bacteria and deactivates enzymes that might adversely affect flavor and color later on. Finally, most sake is left to age about six months, rounding out the flavor before shipping.

How to Serve Sake
High-quality sake is almost as complex as wine, but with more subtle flavors. Experts often describe the beverage as fragrant, light, fruity, or dry — ideal for light dishes like seafood or salads. Although each brand has its own unique flavor, sake has the privileged quality of sufficient delicacy to accompany many dishes. Unlike wine, there are no perfect pairings. Sweeter sake, for example, goes well with spicy food and desserts, especially berries and chocolate. Robust sakes has sufficient flavor and body to stand up to light beef dishes. Like wine tasting, however, the final judgment is always up to the drinker.

The Japanese often serve sake at a temperature to match the time of year or the type of food it will accompany. Warm sake is called kan. When kan is heated, the fullness of body and mellow flavor become more pronounced, making this a popular choice during the cooler months or when paired with refreshingly light fare.

Chilled sake is called hiya. Hiya has a fresh, fruity character and is particularly refreshing during warm weather. Some sakes are brewed specifically to serve chilled, to preserve the delicate flavor that heat can destroy. Other sakes are brewed for more versatility, and tend to have a slightly heartier flavor that is enjoyable both chilled and warmed.

The History of Sake in the U.S.
Beau Timken opened America’s first sake store, True Sake, in the Hayes Valley neighborhood of San Francisco. According to Timken, Japanese immigrants working on Hawaiian sugar plantations brought sake to the islands in 1885. Resentful over the exodus of its workers, Japan heavily taxed sake exports, causing many Japanese immigrants to start their own sake breweries. A century later, a second sake wave brought major Japanese breweries to American soil through-out the 1970s and 80s.

At first, sake was served incorrectly. Timken says most of the sake sold in America tasted like “jet fuel” served out of sake machines in Japanese restaurants. Thankfully, times are changing and sake has received a second chance. More quality sake is available than ever before. And Americans are becoming aware of the benefits of enjoying pure and natural sake: little to no hangover, no sulfites, half the acidity of wine — the perfect enhancement to a healthy lifestyle.

Modern Sake
Preceding the resurgence in popularity of the martini at the turn of this century, people began using sake as a mixer in cocktails. Timken explains that two types of sake are used: unfiltered sake is popular because it gives the cocktail a “white, fluffy” appearance, whereas filtered sake is clear and adds a light, fruity flavor.

Compared to distilled liquors, sake is lower in both alcoholic content and calories; sake averages about 16 to 20 percent alcohol, while vodka is usually around 40 percent. Sake cocktails are a nice alternative for those who have an aversion to spirits, or for those times when you want to have a mellow conversation. Masatoshi Ohata, general manager of marketing, export and finance at Takara Sake in Berkeley, says, “Sake cocktails tend to have a mild taste. Sake has a distinctive aroma so you can feel complex taste in each pour.”

Another plus: premium sake, even when one may overindulge, is nearly hangover-free. Why? Congeners, thought to cause hangovers, are generated from the impurities in an alcoholic beverage. In sake, the main source of congeners are the proteins and fatty acids in the outside part of the rice kernel. Because premium sake uses rice milled down to less than 70 percent of the original kernel size, most of these impurities are removed.

Popularity among Asian Americans
Sake is popular with APAs. Tiken reports that 40 percent of his customers are Asian American. “Asian Americans feel an affinity to their origins when they drink sake,” Tiken explains.

Asian Americans also enjoy pairing their cuisine with sake. “The delicate taste of dry, clean sake goes well with sushi and sashimi,” Ohata says.

But enough talk. You look thirsty. Here, hand me your glass …

Sake Sampler

A nyone can enjoy sake at the first sip, but to develop your palate for sake requires tasting experience; sampling a wide range of sakes is essential. With so many kinds of sake available — from traditional sake to sake vodka — why not try them all? Below is a sampling of a few sakes on the market today.

Kissui Vodka
From Berkeley’s Takara Sake, this is the only Japanese vodka available in the United States. Kissui is blended with pure spring water from Fushimi, Kyoto, and with only the finest grain rice. It has a well-polished, smooth taste, making the purest martini around.

Shidai Izumi Junmai Ginjo “Muroka Nama Genshu”
This unfiltered sake has the aroma of honey and ripe cantaloupe, accompanied by a creamy, spreading sweetness, well-diffused by a nice acidity, with a barely perceptible tart tone at the end to round out the balance.

Saké2me
Sake2me offers a blend of junmai sake with exotic, all-natural Asian flavors such as Asian pear, ginger, mango, green tea, and yuzu citrus. Packaged in single-serving, six-ounce bottles, this tipple is a trendy, adventurous alternative to beer and wine.

Oroku “Hiyaoroshi”
Junmai Ginjo
Hiyaoroshi is sake that has been pasteurized only once. Oroku has faint, golden tones, well-crafted through very precise filtering. Pineapples and prunes wrestle in the comparatively heavy aroma. Viscous and rich, Oroku has spicy and slightly citric touches that taper near the end.

Ty Ku
Rather than relying on your typical rum or vodka, take a walk on the wild side, and explore the invigorating flavor of Ty Ku. Ty Ku is a sake liqueur infused with fruits and herbs. Libation lovers will fall for Ty Ku, which offers a variety of creative cocktail options.

Sake Taste Testing
Sake Afficionados and Community Members Put Some of Takara’s Sakes to the Test

Panelists:

Thys Bui
55, wine consultant
Pick: No favorite: depends on the dish and occasion

Rose Chung
49, legislative aide to SF Supervisor Aaron Peskin
Pick: Shirakabe Gura Tokubetsu

Genevieve Jopanda
30, San Francisco/Bay Area regional VP, ZipCar
Pick: Hana Lychee

Dennis Lee
28, owner/co-chef, Namu
Pick: Shirakabe Gura Tokubetsu

Tak Matsuba
62, owner, Bushi-Tei
Pick: Shochiku Bai Antique

Franco Torres
34, owner, Mink Bar
Pick: Sho Chiku Bai Nigori

Les Tso
42, beverage industry account executive
Pick: Sho Chiku Bai Nigori Crème de Sake

Ali Wong
25, comic
Pick: Shirakabe Gura Tokubetsu

Sake: Shirakabe Gura Tokubetsu
Character: Complex, deep, well-balanced body, very smooth
Comments: “Yummy. The smoothness coats your mouth very evenly. It’s the type of drink that I’d want to eat with barbecued chicken and cheesecake.”

— Ali Wong

“It tastes kind of country to me, and I like that, especially with some country comfort food, like braised pork belly or fried chicken skin. I would drink this with a meal and cold beer chaser.”

— Dennis Lee

“I can see bartenders getting creative with this, pouring variations of cosmos, purple hooters, and lemon
drops.”

— Franco Torres

“Strong enough to get buzzed while I enjoy my sushi.”

— Rose Chung

“I would buy this when I’m going to have with a teriyaki-based sauce chicken or shrimp tempura.”

— Thys Bui

Sake: Sho Chiku Bai Nigori Crème de Sake
Character: Bold, sweet, robust flavor, reminiscent of coconut with clean finish
Comments: “When you shake the bottle, it looks like tiny bits of cottage cheese, or those mystery white solids in soy milk cartons, which is kind of un-appetizing.”

— Ali Wong

“This sticks to the palate and drowns it with a yogurty rice coating. It’s already giving me a headache. I wouldn’t drink this again unless it was in my girlfriend’s cocktail, and she made me taste it.”

— Dennis Lee

“This is something I can indulge in! I can see myself sipping this chilled, poolside somewhere.”

— Franco Torres

“Very rich and fresh grape flavor. Also, presence of some koji [process of sake fermentation] aroma. I would pair with some simple pork or duck, but not with dishes that have heavy sauce.”

— Tak Matsuba

“Smells like Chinatown: rice, nutty flavors, fresh smells in the morning.”

— Les Tso

Sake: Sho Chiku Bai Antique
Character: Excellent flavor and exceptionally smooth taste with flowery nose and fruity aroma
Comments: “The flavor is tame, but that’s good for people like me who turn purple when they drink. This sake is petite in shape and flavor. I’m 5 ft. tall, so I feel a natural connection. I like the squat, green bottle. It’s like Perrier’s Japanese cousin.”

— Ali Wong

“This sake goes down real easy. This is the type of sake that you’d want to order if you had a large party. Everyone would enjoy it. If someone was new to sake, I’d
serve them this.”

— Franco Torres

“I like the fruity and floral flavor. Its flavor is consistent throughout. Doesn’t leave any bitterness behind.”

— Genevieve Jopanda

“Similar to a nice vodka: subtle, yet has depth. Would pair well with sushi.”

— Les Tso

Sake: Hana Lychee
Character: Exotic and pleasant fruit flavor with wonderfully mellow aroma
Comments: “It tastes like a lychee jelly cup — at first. Then, it begins to taste like cough syrup… and I’m having flashbacks of my mother shoving teaspoons down my throat. But the aftertaste is refreshing. My lips now taste like Hello Kitty gum.”

— Ali Wong

“I might make a dessert with it, but it’s like drinking Torani syrup.”

— Dennis Lee

“This sake would also be terrific with a bowl of cold fruit after dinner.”

— Franco Torres

“The smell is really inviting. It doesn’t give the impression that it’s alcohol. It would be difficult to put this bottle down.”

— Genevieve Jopanda

“If you love lychee like I do, you would love this drink. Really sweet. I can barely taste the alcohol.”

— Rose Chung

Sake: Sho Chiku Bai Nama
Character: Bold, fruity, fresh and dry taste
Comments: “I would buy this sake again, especially if I had a large plate of shellfish to go with it. This would be perfect with shrimp and oysters, not to mention sashimi.”

— Franco Torres

“I would drink this with a simple flavored dish, for this will not be overpowering. I like the simple, dry taste, but the alcohol aroma is a little bothersome.”

— Tak Matsuba

“Reminds me of the juice after sucking out a snail.”

— Rose Chung

“This could a great partner with calamari, mussel or squid salads, or baked oyster.”