SAN FRANCISCO — Vietnamese cuisine may be familiar to many San Francisco diners, but Pagolac chef/owner David Chan’s stirring dishes with alluring flavors can only be found in his restaurant.
Embedded in the seedy Tenderloin, patrons could easily sidestep the modest signage. Once past the squalid entrance, candles, mahogany tables and chestnut walls create the feeling of a sanctuary. With dimmed lights and Billie Holiday in the background, the ambiance is modern and serene.
Pagolac has gone through some challenging times in recent years. In 2005, owner Phuong Thi To died from a tragic automobile accident nearby the restaurant. As a tribute to their mother, To’s children continue to run the restaurant: David replicates his mom’s recipes, while sous chef James artfully plates the dishes. “The restaurant filled the hole as a gathering place,” James said. “It’s a place to heal. Mom was the center of the universe.”
Bo 7 mon ($16), the seven-course beef set meal typically served at weddings, steals the show. Manager Thomas Chan kindly introduces each dish and suggests assembling techniques. I begin my culinary excursion with bo tai chanh: Purple onions and peanuts provide a nice crunch, while rare beef marinated in lemon juice and with a marshmallow-like texture has a sweet and vinegary flavor.
The next two beef dishes are do-it-yourself. A vibrant medley of vegetables and herbs arrives. Coriander, mint, sprouts, cucumber and lettuce act as cooling agents contrasting the sizzling beef. A plate of rice paper for wrapping and a bowl of hot water arrive. Upon dipping the rice paper into the hot bowl of water, the rice paper turns translucent and soft in a matter of seconds. Then it’s time for the assembly line.
In the bo nhung dam, blushing beef sliced paper thin is lightly boiled in a vinegar and water mixture. Patrons control the wellness of the beef. The chewy rice paper wraps the vegetables, herbs and beef together. A slight dunk into the fish sauce provides a sweet and sour flavor boost. For an extremely pungent enhancer, dip the beef roll into the nuoc man sauce, made from anchovy and pineapple bits, which gives the rolls a salty anchovy taste.
The next dish, bo nuong vi, resembles the American steak. Thin slices of beef swirled in a salty butter are cooked over a rustic grill. Skip the dipping sauce; the buttered beef is best admired with a few sprigs of mint.
The remaining courses are cooked by the chef. A trio of beef skewer dishes arrives; my favorite is bo la lot, beef sausage wrapped in pepper leaves resulting in a smoky flavor. The sausage is chewy in texture, similar to a bratwurst without the casing. The natural spiciness of the pepper leaves rounds out the dish. The bo cuon moi, grilled beef cloaked in caramelized scallions, marries tenderness with sweetness. With a beef jerky texture, the bo lui is a skewer of well-done beef marinated in a sweet and savory glaze. Yearning a subtle flavor to balance the savory jerky skewer, milky rice porridge with beef arrives (chao bo). Toasted broken rice creates a slight nutty taste that compliments the sweet minced beef perfectly. End the meal with chuoi chien kem ($3.50), four scorching and crunchy fried banana nuggets surrounding a scoop of chilly coconut ice cream.
PAGOLAC
655 Larkin Street
San Francisco, CA 94109
(415) 776-3234
Cash only
………. Hours ……….
Tue. – Sun.:
5:00 p.m.-10:00 p.m.
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