Waiting in the lobby at Koi Palace, it is obvious what to order. The 2,000-galloon seafood tanks are filled with delicacies from abalone and king crab to lobster and geoduck. The exciting part is choosing the right sauces and cooking styles to pair with the fresh seafood found in their creative menu.
A Hong Kong immigrant who attended college in the United States, owner Willy Ng started out as a waiter at local Chinese restaurants. He noticed a lack of authentic Chinese restaurants that serve fresh seafood with a grand ambiance. In 1996, he and his family opened Koi Palace.
“Our food attracts people because of our large selection of live seafood, and everything is made fresh,” said Ng, who orchestrates an efficient assembly line so customers receive their dishes promptly. “Many Bay Area Chinese restaurants have great cooking techniques but lack operation management skills.”
Koi Palace offers patrons not only an extensive seafood menu, but also an ambiance reminiscent of Hong Kong seafood restaurants. In the high-ceiling, 480-seat dining room, sheer draperies, imperial shingles and mahogany tables create a grand atmosphere. Our waiter’s expressionless face and lack of enthusiasm was apropos of the haute cuisine.
Geoduck sashimi ($30), fresh from the tank, is about temperature and crunch. Chilled over a bed of ice, thinly sliced geoduck refreshes the palate, marrying a sea sweet taste with crunch. A quick dunk in wasabi and soy sauce gives it a salty and spicy boost. From the idea that nothing is discarded and could be very delicious if properly prepared, the fried fish skin ($8), with a savory and nutty taste, shatters with one bite and has a texture similar to pork rind. Jasmine tea, with the right level of bitterness and a cooling effect, pairs well with the seafood.
The suckling pig ($15) is a must. Roasted till crispy, the caramelized skin shatters in your mouth like the top of crème brûlée. Best with a dab of hoisin sauce for sweetness, the meat is so tender that you could cut it with a fork. My least favorite dish, the squab ($18), tasted gamey, but pairs well with sweet green peas and fragrant lotus seeds. Cooked al dente, mustard greens wok fried with minced garlic ($12) harmonizes bittersweet vegetables with aromatic sweet garlic. Stealing the show was Shanghai crab made two ways ($35) — a heap of fresh crabmeat is sauteed with salty dried scallops and aromatic egg whites. With a bowl of white rice, you’re in comfort food heaven; drizzle some red vinegar for a tangy enhancer.
Koi Palace
Serramonte Plaza
365 Gellert Ave.
Daly City, CA 94015
(650) 992-9000
……. Mon. – THU.: …….
11:00 a.m. – 2:30 p.m.
5:00 p.m. – 9:30 p.m.
………. FRI.: ……….
11:00 a.m. – 2:30 p.m.
5:00 p.m. – 10:00 p.m.
………. SAT.: ……….
10:00 a.m. – 3:00 p.m.
5:00 p.m. – 10:00 p.m.
………. SUN.: ……….
9:00 a.m. – 9:00 p.m.
5:00 p.m. – 9:30 p.m.
Prices: $25 – 45 per dish
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