SAN FRANCISCO — I ate the best sushi of my life at the Tokyo Tsukiji fish market — so I consider the all-you-can-eat sushi buffet an oxymoron in Japanese culinary culture. However, I was pleasantly surprised after a recent visit to Sushi Hunter.
Sushi Hunter quietly sits on the corner of the Powell Street hill in the historically Italian district of North Beach, surprising patrons daily with a rowdy ambiance. Ocean blue walls adorned with giant marlins create a sea harbor decor. The sushi bar is illuminated with neon sapphire lights, creating a sensual mood. Big screen TVs broadcast sports events while jovial patrons participate in sake festivities.
The all-you-can-eat sushi bar offers 50 made-to-order items; I ordered up a plate of nigiri sushi. Smothered in teriyaki sauce, the buttery eel could have used a dash of sugar in the sauce. The salt-cured mackerel combines a strong savory taste with a rich finish. For a sweet sea crunch, the squid nigiri will do the trick. The seared tuna flaunts a slightly smoky crust with a sweetly mild interior. Melt-in-your-mouth buttery yellowtail sets the example of sweet, fresh fish. The Japanese often finish a nigiri meal with tamago (sweet omelette), created by layering thin fried eggs with mirin and sugar. Unlike other all-you-can-eat sushi places, Sushi Hunter has a reasonable fish-to-rice ratio.
The sushi rolls did not disappoint. The fried California roll, with a crunchy tempura crust, puts a new twist on a classic. The shrimp tempura roll combines chewy seaweed and crispy shrimp.
The sushi buffet also includes appetizers and cooked entrees. The spinach appetizer, sprinkled with sesame, is a great starter. With a gelatinous texture, the seaweed salad offers a cool crunch. The miso soup is slightly diluted; an added teaspoon of miso paste would have rounded it out.
Pan-fried with a chewy skin and crispy brown bottom, the gyoza (Japanese potsticker) was the best appetizer of the night. Cooked al dente, the udon satisfied my comfort food craving, although the soup base needed a dash of salt. The chicken karaage is a great Japanese version of the chicken nugget. The grilled mackerel features a nutty, savory skin that balances out the flaky, mild meat. The shrimp and vegetable tempura is meant to be dunked ever-so-slightly to sustain crunchiness and prevent a soggy coating. A floral green tea ($1.50) refreshes the palate and ends a great feast. For the entire meal, with tax and tip, I spent 60 dollars for two people.
Sushi Hunter, owned by Hanson and Kristy Lau, has gone through challenging times as of late. Their previous partner was caught in a money laundering scandal. Despite debts, litigation battles and the troubled economy, the restaurant survived on pure determination. After immigrating from Hong Kong to pursue the American dream, the owners were determined to carry Sushi Hunter through the hurdles. Desiring to differentiate themselves from most Japanese restaurants, the owners chose the Italian eatery row (North Beach) and an all-you-can-eat menu.
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SUSHI HUNTER
1701 Powell St.
(between Columbus Avenue
and Union Street)
San Francisco, CA 94133
(415) 291-9268
………. Hours ……….
Mon. – THURS.: 5:00 p.m. – 10:00 p.m.
FRI.: 5:00 p.m. – 11:00 p.m.
SAT.: 1:30 p.m. – 11:00 p.m.
Sun.: 1:30 p.m. – 9:30 p.m.
………. Prices ……….
Adult: $22.95 (Mon.–Thurs.)
$24.95 (Fri.–Sun. and holidays)
Children (under 12): $15.95