Ebisu
October 17, 2008
Sushi Legacy
SAN FRANCISCO - New Japanese restaurants have been springing up in the Sunset District, but Ebisu has remained a neighborhood favorite.
After almost 30 years, owner Steve Fuji is handing over the reins to son Eric. Graduating from UC Berkeley in 2004 with a business degree, Eric began working in corporate America where he did not feel appreciated. He went on to receive a degree in Hospitality and Restaurant Management from the California Culinary Academy, and after working for Nobu in Las Vegas, he dedicated himself to managing his family’s restaurants in the Inner Sunset and at the San Francisco International Airport.
Eric admits his parents would rather he work in a field that requires fewer hours, but he firmly insists he chose this path because he is passionate about the work. He recalls his dad working long hours, yet still managing to attend his son’s baseball games and cello concerts.
What drives him to continue despite the stress and constant worrying? “The instant gratification that you just made someone’s day by providing them with a memorable experience.”
Eric believes in the trickle-down effect when it comes to the restaurant business: First, keep the employees happy, and it will lead to satisfied customers and thus to good business.
The Fujis believe owner-to-customer interaction is vital to building personal relationships, and Steve Fuji’s presence in his restaurants was key to their success. Almost every night, the sushi bar is filled with customers exchanging smiles and jokes with the sushi chefs. In an attempt to show appreciation to loyal customers, a rewards program has been established. Underscoring the family feeling of the restaurant, the décor is meant to resemble a home.
Eric prides himself in running one of a handful of Japanese-owned Japanese restaurants in The City. Unique sushi dishes also set the restaurants apart, including live uni (sea urchin) and whole aji (Spanish mackerel).
One step through the front door, and the smell of fresh fish hits you. Ebisu goes through a large volume of fish, keeping the ingredients very fresh.
With buttery texture, the Nigiri Toro ($7.50) exemplifies why tuna belly is a prized commodity. Sprinkled with tobiko (eggs), the Double Hamachi ($12.50) harmonizes the taste of perfectly seasoned rice with sea-sweet fish. The highly recommended Uni Nigiri (sea urchin, $8) explodes with tones of creamy texture.
Brushed with a sweet glaze, the Caterpillar Roll ($9.50) adds double layers of buttery texture from avocados and eel. Roll number 5 ($10.00), currently part of a sushi contest, is all about temperature contrast: filled with albacore and maguro, the deep-fried roll is accompanied with a sweet and spicy curry mayo. Skip the Tempura appetizer ($6.25) as the vegetable and shrimp lacked crispiness.
Two chunks of Tamago (egg omelet, $3) ends the meal on a sweet note; it takes a very skilled chef to master this multiple layered egg piece.
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Ebisu
1283 9th Ave
(between Irving St & Lincoln Way)
San Francisco, CA 94122
(415) 566-1770
ebisusushi.com
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Ebisu at SFO
Main Hall
North Food Court
International Terminal
So. San Francisco, CA 94080
(650) 588-2549
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I’m best friends with the younger son of Ebisu! I know Eric will be very successful in running the business. He’s been doing an AWESOME job so far. Ebisu is my favorite Japanese restaurant. I just wish I could go there more often.
They are closing for re-modeling! I can’t wait to see the finished product!